Understanding the role of lash lift agents
To achieve that lifted look, lash lift solutions need to temporarily break the hair’s internal bonds and reset them in a new shape. Traditionally, TGA has been the go-to for this process. In recent years, cysteamine has gained popularity as a newer alternative.
Cysteamine: a gentle alternative with growing popularity
Cysteamine is an amino acid derivative that works similarly to TGA in reshaping the hair’s structure but is often seen as a more skin-compatible ingredient.
Pros of cysteamine-based lash lifts
Lower pH
Cysteamine-based products often work at a lower pH than traditional TGA formulations, which can be gentler on the lashes and skin.
Better suited for fine hair
Cysteamine formulas may be more suited to clients with finer hair, however you may find it does not perform as well on coarse hair.
Considerations for cysteamine-based lash lifts
Longer processing time
Some cysteamine products may require slightly longer application times to achieve the same result as TGA.
Stability
Cysteamine is more sensitive to oxidation and light, which means product storage and shelf life should be managed carefully.
Cysteamine vs cysteamine hydrochloride
When it comes to cysteamine, there are two ingredients that you need to know: cysteamine and cysteamine hydrochloride. These are different forms of the same active ingredient.
From a performance perspective, both forms function similarly in breaking disulphide bonds, however, they have slight differences in how they work.
What is cysteamine hydrochloride?
Cysteamine hydrochloride is the salt form of cysteamine. Cysteamine hydrochloride is the more stable of the two, something that is beneficial when developing beauty formulations.
It has a lower pH, meaning that it works slower. Additionally, pH adjusters may need to be added to the formula, which can be harsh on lashes over time.
TGA (thioglycolic acid): the traditional powerhouse
TGA has been widely used in the hair and beauty industry for decades, including lash lifting.
Pros of TGA-based lash lifts
Proven performance
TGA has a long history of effective use in lash lifting and brow lamination with consistent results.
Shorter processing time
Many TGA-based products work faster, which can streamline the treatment process in a busy salon.
Suitable for coarse hair
Whilst cysteamine may be great for fine hair, TGA is often better suited for clients with thick, coarse hair.
Widely available and affordable
TGA-based formulas tend to be more cost-effective and are found in many trusted professional brands.
Considerations for TGA-based lash lifts
Higher pH
Some TGA formulations may have a higher pH, which can be more aggressive on the lashes and skin if not used carefully.
Odour
That familiar perm smell? That’s often TGA. While totally harmless, some clients may find it unpleasant. Your lash lift regulars are probably used to it by now!
Sensitivity
A small percentage of clients may experience sensitivity or irritation, particularly if the product is not applied with precision.
So, which one is better?
There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. The choice between cysteamine and TGA depends on your clients’ needs, your preferred technique, and the kind of results you want to deliver.
Offering both cysteamine-based and TGA-based options can position your salon as versatile and client-focused. You might choose cysteamine for first-timers or clients with a history of sensitivity and rely on trusted TGA-based solutions when time is limited or for more robust lash types.
No matter the ingredient, the most important factors are precise application, timing and aftercare. Knowing the chemistry behind your lash lift products empowers you to make informed decisions and keep your clients’ natural lashes healthy and strong.
What’s your go-to lash lift formula?
We’d love to hear from you! Do you prefer the gentleness of cysteamine or the quick efficiency of TGA? Share your experience with us or tag us in your lash lift transformations @officialnouveaubeauty.
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